Even with the proprietary double-walled insulated types, there are still air gaps required and components to separate the chimney from any timber to maintain the fire resistance of the floor. Usually constructed of sectional flue liners and components made from clay, ceramic and concrete, a new chimney can be formed by surrounding the liners with at least mm of brick, filling around the liners with vermiculite or insulating concrete.
All new chimneys must be built on suitable foundations with a damp-proof course no less than mm above ground level and appropriate weathering where they pass through the roof. It is worth considering the type of brick and pointing to be used as well, because some of the most decorative prove to be less than weather-resistant later, resulting in damp walls as wind-driven rainwater penetrates.
Because even lined chimneys can still get hot, timber joists, floorboards or rafters must be trimmed back by at least 40mm from the chimney outer face as it passes through the roof and floors. To some extent, the heat issue with masonry chimneys can be overcome by choosing an insulated factory-made chimney instead. They can be unsuitable in conservation areas, as the polished stainless steel of these large diameter models can look a bit like a NASA launch site, Nevertheless, they remain a popular alternative to masonry chimneys.
The casing encloses high performance insulation, which means that you can still touch it when it is in use without getting burnt. The biggest complaint about chimneys comes from neighbours in urban areas who find themselves downwind of a new one.
Flue gases from the stove must be able to discharge freely without presenting a fire or health hazard, whatever the wind conditions.
This means that the flue outlet needs to be positioned sufficiently high above the roof surface and surrounding buildings to prevent it being affected by wind eddies or downdraughts. The Building Regulations identify the zone for this, but any of these dimensions may need to be increased where there is exposure to:. Fires from stoves are rare but they do get super-hot and heat from the stove or burning fuel that might accidentally fall out of it needs to be considered.
A hearth does the job as long as it is big enough:. The thickness can be included as part of a solid concrete floor slab or beam and block concrete floor, while smaller stoves with lower operating temperatures can be of glass or thinner decorative materials. How to Choose Your Stove. Can I Self Install? Lining Your Chimney. Buyer's Guide and Installation Manual. Measuring Chimney Height. Environment, renewables and recent media nonsense.
Fitting Packs for Liner. Methods for Fitting Stove Into a Fireplace infographic. Measuring Chimney Height Environment, renewables and recent media nonsense. Coming soon. Building Regulations for wood burning stoves — what are they and who polices?
By Julian Patrick. Please do your own due-diligence and research on this subject. This page is about Building Control, Hetas and permissions. Building Control your local council. Building Control shenanigans. See my standard email to Building Control at the foot of this page. Don't let them get away with it. Building Control charges. Unfortunately it appears that they can do this.
Not all Building Controls. So what happens next after you fill your form in? At the end of the process you will receive paperwork that states your stove install is legal. What if I do not get it signed off? You will then have to apply for retrospective Building Control a standard process , or uncouple the stove and state to the house buyer that it is not fitted and will require installation.
Should your installation cause damage to property or person then you will likely find yourself in a spot of bother. Standard letter to Building Control for the few Building Controls who do not play fair. Dear Building Control,. I am notifying you that I am installing a solid fuel stove. I am providing ten days notice of beginning this work. I am happy to fill in any form you may have and pay your reasonable fees. EPA Phase II emission limits by using a qualified retrofit insert, converting the existing wood-burning fireplace to gas-only use or other approved device.
Visit the Woodstove Removal Program webpage for more information. There is also a Woodstoves in Missoula County webpage with additional information. Puget Sound, WA Kitsap, King, Pierce, and Snohomish counties - Air-quality burn bans temporarily restrict some or all indoor and outdoor burning, usually called when weather conditions are cold and still. The Puget Sound Clean Air Agency uses current and forecasted conditions to decide when a burn ban is needed.
Only pellet stoves, gas stoves, and EPA-certified wood stoves can be sold. Wood-burning limited on days when air pollution approaches unhealthy levels. Limits on the number of wood stoves or fireplaces that can be installed in new residential units. On a Winter Spare the Air day, the Air District's wood-burning regulation makes it illegal indoors and outdoors throughout the Bay Area to burn wood, fire logs, pellets, or other solid fuels in a fireplace, woodstove, outdoor fire pit, or other wood-burning device.
This regulation applies to both households and businesses like hotels and restaurants. In addition, the Bay Area's Wood Burning Rule includes provisions such as prohibiting wood-burning devices in new buildings and a year-round prohibition on excessive chimney smoke. Smoke is in violation when it obscures objects viewed through it by more than 20 percent.
A violation can result in a fine. A Stage 1 Burn Ban prohibits the use of all fireplaces and uncertified wood stoves and inserts. Uncertified units are typically older than and lack a certification label on the back of the unit. All outdoor burning is also prohibited. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy.
Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. Decide on a location for your stove. You don't want to have to make the decision of where to put your stove as you are wheeling the lb iron behemoth around on a dolly. Designate a site in your house for your stove well in advance of when you plan to buy it.
Since stoves are space heaters, generally, you'll want the stove on the first floor of your house where you spend most of your time so that it can warm you effectively throughout the day. To further maximize the efficiency of your wood stove, try to pick a spot in a room with especially good insulation so that the heat from the stove is not lost through the walls or windows.
Keep in mind that every wood stove requires a chimney. Take this into account when choosing a spot for your stove. If you plan for your chimney to extend straight up through the roof, for instance, you may not want to pick a spot for your stove that's directly under one of your second floor's main support beams.
Observe your stove's clearance rating when picking a suitable spot. Wood stoves can get very, very hot during use. Radiating heat from the stove can pose a hazard to nearby walls and furniture, so wood stoves generally have a specified clearance - a minimum safe distance between the stove and nearby floors and walls.
Your stove clearance can depend on where you live, whether your residence's floors and walls are combustible, and the type and size of wood stove you have.
If in doubt about your stove's clearance rating, contact your stove's manufacturer. If not you may still be able to install it. Check if your locality allows non-listed solid-fuel appliances this is what wood stoves are officially called.
If yes then check next with your insurance company. If all is good you can install your unlisted stove according to NFPA This will specify all clearances. Choose a certified wood stove. As you shop for wood stoves, be sure to check that any stove you're considering buying is properly certified as meeting criteria for safety and environmental friendliness.
The EPA regularly publishes exhaustive lists of certified wood stoves, but certified stoves should also be labeled with both a temporary paper label and a permanent metal label. Pick a stove that's the right size for your needs. Generally, the larger a wood stove is, the hotter it can become when it's full of burning wood. Thus, small rooms can become uncomfortably warm from the heat provided by an especially large wood stove. The average medium-sized house requires only about 5, to 25, BTU - in other words, the maximum output of a small stove or less - even during winter.
Burning your wood stove at its maximum capacity for long periods of time can damage the stove, so you may want to opt for a stove that's slightly larger than what you'll typically need so that you can use it at sub-maximum capacity most of the time. Part 2. Before starting, notify your local officials. Like many building projects, installing a wood stove may require permission from your local government to ensure that you comply with safety regulations.
However, rules will vary from town to town, so, before you buy a stove or start modifying your house, get in touch with the building or planning department of your city or town's government to get a sense of what is and isn't legal.
If you need to get a building permit to install your stove, the officials in this department should be able to help you get one. You may also want to call your local fire marshal, as, in some jurisdictions, installing a wood stove requires an inspection to approve the validity of the installation. Finally, you may also want to contact the issuer of your homeowner's insurance, as installing a wood stove may change your liability. Lay a non-combustible floor pad in the spot where your stove will be.
This pad, made of brick, ceramic tile, concrete or another noncombustible substance, should be flush with your home's existing flooring. Floor pads are essential for safe wood stove operation, as they ensure that any stray sparks or embers that fall from the stove will only come into contact with the pad, not the floor, reducing the risk of fire.
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